Sodere - Thermal healing with History & Hidden Adventures

As Addis was freezing in the evenings, and wanting to not get the New Year Gunfan (Flu), I opted to venture out of town for a weekend, desiring a combination of activities, an inexpensive budget, and wanting to go somewhere in Ethiopia where the weather was warmer, thus I contemplated a few places. I vouched for the warmer lowland Rift Valley region, and traveling in a private Vehicle with friends, going Southeast to Sodere seemed the best choice. Considering its vast availability of hotels on route, a choice of ample transportation options, plenty of outdoors activities and relaxing thermal pools to be topped with Filwoha, Sodere was the ideal choice.

Sodere’s History

Some 120km Southeast from Addis Abeba in Shewa region at an elevation of 1,466 Meters, situated in the lowlands where Awash river zigzags through the land, lies Sodere Hotel and Resort. 

 Most Ethiopians that were born after the 60’s in Addis are bound to have endless childhood memories of spending their holidays as a family in Sodera, or traveling with friends to a natural resort where one can be in beautiful nature, that combines hot spring and a bit of partying. Although I wasn't too found of Sodere growing up, we did travel often to Abader Fliwoha (Hot springs that revitalize ones body, mind and soul). But as far back as I can remember my family had been going there for more than 50 years, and staying more than a few days in Keremt (rainy season), thus I do have ample memories of Fliwoha, Awash River and sneaky Velvet monkeys. 

EmperorHaileselassie in the 60s was consulted on the Rift Valley Development around the Awash region, which includes both Wonchi and Methara Suger factory, thus most urban dwellers were being encouraged to Invest in those areas. After the Emperor built his Palace up the mountain from what is now Sodere, the Emperor wanted to attract public Investment to that region, which gave rise to the idea to build a resort on the Oasis of Sodere. The area at that time was well known to travelers coming from South Easter Ethiopia to the Shewan Highlands or vice versa. Locals and traders saw it as an oasis where the hot springs/Filwoha around that area was known for its medicinal healing powers.

The story goes that the land that we know as Sodere in the 1960’s used to be owned by a private individual, Balambaras Girma Yayeherad. At that time Emperor Haileselasie had the right to use any of Ethiopian lands for public use, but because of the Emperor’s tactful ability he wanted to diplomatic as to see the Balambaras for his consent.

The Emperor tactfully preceded to ask the Balambaras of his affection towards the emperor & country, as well as his trust, and the Balambaras answered with joy for being acknowledged into the confidence of the late emperor. Thus the emperor proceeded with his request for the well being of the country's economy, reinforced the Balambarasis commitment to his country as well as making an old man happy, with that plea the Balambaras couldn’t refuse & gave away his land to establish a state owned Sodere Resort for the public. 

Thus Sodere Resort was established and started operation in 1963, attracting the “Who’s who of Addis” during the time of the Emperor. Unfortunately during the last 50 years, nothing significant has changed, and considering it has been privatized in 2013 and prices have hiked more than 300% from 2010 to 2013, other than the natural habitats being affected, not much has been done in an eco-friendly way. As my aunt who has been going there since the 60s mentioned, apart from more rooms that are unkept, a few new buildings, new main kitchen built during the socialist Era, in 2013 there still seems to still be bad service, lack of efficient staff & facilities, bath rooms that don't quite work, and inconsistent food choice's during buffets, it seemed to her the 60s were the highlight of Sodere.

 The positive aspect of things remaining the same is that the natural Flilowha at Abader is as magnificent, and is truly healing for not just your skin, but for your mind, body and soul. The magnificence of the topography, with the flow of Awash River, mountains, hot springs, and warm swimming pools does make it now one of my destinations. And in time I have realized that the weekends should be avoided if you want a quiet time, and weekdays are the best time to visit Sodere, when you can give it due time, and enjoy the adventure that Sodere has to offer. Even more so if you decide to camp in Sodere’s natural setting.

Things to do and See:

- Swimming in the Thermol Olympic sized pools; 

- Hiking; 

- Fishing, watching Crocodile, Hippo and a variety of wonderful birds at Awash River; 

- Cleansing in the thermal Filwoha at Abader; 

-Dipping in the steamy bathhouses where locals come for healing 

-Hiking around the community outside, behind and on the mountain; 

-Visiting Kidane Mehret Church Holy water for religious pilgrims; 

- Watching the family of quick-witted Velvet Monkeys co-exist with Humans.

Sodere Resort offers bungalows’, apartments as well as campsites with breakfast included. Full sized restaurants, Pool snacks, Conference center, TV with Satellite in Bungalows are also available. Make sure to call Sodere Resort in advance to reserve rooms, as it is usually booked in the weekends and during Keremt (Rainy Season). Prices for Ethiopians and foreigners are different, to encourage Ethiopians to travel around their country and due to the low salaries paid, Ethiopians get a discount to most hotels as well as entrances fees. So ask in advance, or call days or week ahead of your travels, to guarantee a room. Sodere is more than a resort, it’s a natural wellness destination, to revitalize ones soul!.

Sodere Resort in 2019 which has been a favorite local spot for generation, iand currently accomodating a large number  of visitors, is undergoing a vast expansion,  diverting Awash river, as well as bulldozing nearby mountains to accommodate weekenders. Hopefully it's standard once complete is eco-friendly,  with proper environmentally acceptable waste management, works with the surrounding community, and takes good care of one of the most important rivers in Ethiopia, the mighty Awash.

Melkam Guzo (Happy travels)

“Take only pictures, leave only footprints, kill nothing but time” ☆Conciouse Traveler

By Dutchess @Deldeyoch

T : https://twitter.com/deldeyoch
F : https://www.facebook.com/deldeyoch/
I : https://www.instagram.com/deldeyoch
Blog: https://www.deldeyoch.com
Website: www.deldeyoch.com

"Bridging the gap between the monetary fortunate and unfortunate."