Empires, Spirituality and Cultural Mecca – Dire Dawa & Harer!

Whether by overland from Awash Saba, passing through the southern Rift valley escarpments which rises to the Chercher and Arba Gugu mountains, by train (The new train was inagurated in 2018), or flying Ethiopian that feed you a tasty cake and drink within 45minutes (which is more than what you get when you travel from Washington DC in the East coast of American to Seattle, WA in the west coast), entering Dire or Harer feels like you have entered another historic part of Ethiopia’s’ past. 

Growing up my family used to travel overland every year for pilgrimage to St Gabriel Ethiopian Orthodox church, Kulubi , and every time I come to this part of Ethiopia it has a wonderful childhood memory, which comes to life in its hot, arid climate, its colorful houses, diverse community, exotic shopping scene, and the ever so open and progressive community that live in it. 

Well in 2018, what made my trip to Dire Dawa and Harer more appealing was the start of the new Addis-Djibouti train (759km), the backbone of the Ethiopian National Railway Network that took 6years to inagurate. It provides landlocked Ethiopian with access to the sea. It was a bit of a challenge to find Furi-Lebu train station as it was actually in Sebeta and not Lebu, and there were no signs leading to the train station. All train tickets are purchased at the station, but they are thinking of opening a ticket office at legehar. Traveling schedule from Addis to Djibouti is on even dates, and from Djibouti to Addis is on odd number dates.The train ended up being a 7hrs smooth journey, overlooking somewhat scenic route to Dire dawa. Except for the lack of food despite the nice cafe compartment (that I was prepared for), and extreme security checks, the seats were comfortable, the hostess’s friendly, the stations well built and the train leaving on time on both ways. Make sure to come an hour early to buy your tickets to Dire dawa, and a day early to Djibouti. All passengers to Djibouti and Ethiopia must have a visa to both countries.  The station is a bit of a distance to all stations so you need to arrange a pickup or take the taxis available on all stations. I have taken cross country trip in America, Europe, Asia and other African countries, for the mere $10 for a  trip to Eastern Ethiopia, I found this train to be exceptionally simple and unique, the passengers diverse, the hostess’s friendly, the AC temperature on point, ample room on my seat, and the train efficient, maybe the coastal train in Washington train may come close. There are times the electricity may go off, so the train will wait for awhile, or go with plan B which is to use diesel the rest of the way.

Dire Dawa is a modern city, clean and paved, that was enlarged to service the Chemin De Fer railway that connects Addis Abeba to Djibouti, which is strategically located. Dire in the 20th century experienced a significant economic boom, mainly due to the contraband trade in that region, the unfortunate reality that the rail is the only connection of Ethiopian trade to the Indian ocean, and also the decline of the significant role of Harers’ location when trading with the Asia and the rest of Africa, as part of the Silk Road trade. My love for Dire, started as a young teenager from Addis, walking around the colorful houses, noticing the confident & colorfully dressed woman with mesmerizing jewelry trading around the open Taiwan Market (Which is now closed off). My owe of the cultural and language diversity, the beautiful dria the woman wore, riding around town after 4pm in a bicycle and visiting the Railway station always brightens up my mood. Although it is hot in Dire, I have noticed that since the city has an amazing varieties of trees everywhere, the humidity is great for the skin, and the breeze helps to cool off. So please don’t overlook Dires’ uniqueness when traveling to Eastern Ethiopia. 

As you head out of Dire, up the winding road, zigzagging through the mountains (which used to be gravel road and very dangerous, especially since most drivers will not tempt to drive that route without consuming chat, the local drug), I am always inclined to visit my Godfather, St Gabriel Church, Kulubi, which are visited by both Christian and Muslim pilgrims. The harmony of the mountainous environment, the church with its surrounding allows one a moment of silence and reflection, especially if you go when its not the day of celebration, as there are only a few people at mass, allowing you to fully experience the church.  Giving you the energy and openness to travel up the mountainous terrain to reach the exotic and charming city of Harer, at 1850m above sea level. Almost 700m, ascend from Dire Dawa to Harer, so please observe the change in climate, & topography, as its quite a journey.

Before entering Harer, or passing Alemaya university (Where most Famous Ethiopian Agriculturist are Alumni to), there is a chat (Local Herbal Drug) Market town, Awedey, where if you are there between noon-2pm, one might be alarmed at the intensity and overwhelming amount of Chat that’s being bought and sold. I guess Ethiopia has really moved from specializing in Hareri coffee to cultivating the cash crop, chat, especially in this area. Chat used to be consumed by mostly people from these parts of Ethiopia, that have had a spiritual and other connection to the plant, yet the last 20years, it has become apparent that our youth have been misusing it, thus the addicted youth to this plant is a concern for all. 

As you enter into Harer, one is disappointed as it looks like another town in Ethiopia. But as you travel deeper within the city, and see the walled city for the first time, my heart stopped, “Am I in India, Zanzibar, Djibouti, or Middle East”, no I was in Ethiopia, you observe that Harer is situated in a plateau with deep gorges, surrounded by desserts and savannah. There is something magical, playful, enchanting, and spiritually heightened, within the walled city of Harer, especially in Jegol, that was built between 13th & 16th century (Highly influenced by the Arabs, Adal Dynasty and Ottoman turks). Sleeping at the heart of the walled city, in a Harari house over 300years old; chatting with the children and elderly of Jegol, who speak a minimum of 6 languages; walking through the colorful houses and private mosques of Harer (Amongst which are those built in the 10th century); opening my palate to Harari food & sweets; immersing oneself in the vibrant market and visiting museums, as well as people watching the diverse community of Harer is an experience that will make you wonder and fall in love with Ethiopia’s diversity, strength, complexity and endurance. It truly is the fourth holiest city in the world, I have been to the holly sites of both Jerusalem and Lalibella, and Harers spiritual energy is near and dear to my heart.  

I am always astounded at the civilized and progressive people of Harer, both woman and man. Their openness, assertiveness and communicative nature is a breath of fresh air, as well as the Muslim woman’s strength and courage in embracing themselves confidently. I was culturally shocked to see Harari woman enjoying ladies night out, dancing in clubs with their hijab, so much so that we became friends the whole night. One has to make an effort and get to know the cultural, history and geography of Harer to fully grasp this gem of a city in Eastern Ethiopia. It has seen its share of wealth, prosperity, wars, empires, explorers, exploiters, traders from as far as china and Western Sahara, as its on the Silk road. 

Sitting on the streets of Jegol, I had tears in my eyes, thinking of my ancestors historic significance as Ethiopians, not just to fight foreign insurgencies, but also to transfer such immense importance in the significant role Africa has played in the advancement of civilization, trade, culture, cuisine, language, faith and science. If only the world can learn from the children of Jegol, their embrace & fluency of more than 6 languages around them by the age of 10; their tolerance to people from all walks of life and color; their friendly yet frank demeanor and grace; their appreciation and respect for the religion of the world; and their confidence, pride and apathy of those around them was a huge lesson that I will forever cherish …

Melkam Guzo

“Take only pictures, leave only footprints, kill nothing but time” ☆Conciouse Traveler 

By Dutchess @Deldeyoch

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